ChatGPT/AI detector: Chrome extension

Using AI to detect AI feels like a little like the start of the robot wars. Yet here we are.

The makers of GPTZero—the ChatGPT/AI detector—have released a Chrome extension (from your Chrome browser, download it here).

Once you have added Origin by GPTZero extension to Chrome, visit any webpage, such as an assignment in your course management system. Highlight the text you want to check for the likelihood the text was written by AI. You need to highlight at least 250 characters.

Right click on the text, and select “Scan text with Origin.”

GPTZero’s Origin extension will generate a popup that will produce its conclusion.

In the bottom right corner of every webpage, you will now see the Origin icon. Instead of using the right-click menu, you can copy the text, click the Origin icon, paste the text into the Origin box, then click “Origin check.”

A couple thoughts on student use of AI.

  1. Some instructors are asking students to use ChatGPT to generate answers to questions, and then asking students to critique ChatGPT’s answers.
  2. Some instructors are telling students that they will be using tools like GPTZero to evaluate the likelihood that the student’s submitted work was AI-generated. Instructors are encouraging students to use GPTZero to evaluate their work before submitting it. If a student did use AI to do their work, the student’s challenge is now to rewrite the AI’s answer to sound more human. Students may decide that that’s more work than doing their own writing from the start.



Stay safe: USB condoms, VPNs, and travel routers (reprise)

In what feels like eons ago, I wrote a blog post on protecting your data when in public. I looked up that post. I published it on January 20, 2020, just three months before most of us stopped going out in public. Good timing, eh? Now that most people are out and about, here is that post again revised with updated information from the FBI regarding juice hacking. Read on!

USB condoms

Let’s start with USB condoms, because, frankly, that’s why you decided to read this post. It’s okay to be honest. We’re friends.

The cable you use to charge your phone and your tablet serve as both a power cable and a data cable. Electricity and information flow through this same cable. As long as you are home, you are safe. When you venture out into public, however…

Let’s say you’re at the airport with a long layover and a low phone battery. You plug your USB cable into one of those now-ubiquitous charging stations. Unfortunately, someone with nefarious intent has been there before you. Once you plug in your USB cable, the nefarious person begins to steal any data that flows through your cable, such as passwords, or sends malware to your phone.

This is called juice jacking, and the FBI officially recommends not using USB outlets in public spaces.

Option 1. Do what the FBI recommends, and don’t use public USB outlets (including in your hotel room). Instead, use your device’s charge adapter and only plug into electrical outlets.

Option 2. Use a charge-only cable rather than a data/charge cable. It took some effort to find the right search term for Amazon to give me what I was looking for. I had success with “usb data blocker charge cable.”

Option 3: Use a USB data blocker adapter. A USB condom, if you will. Plug your USB cable into a device that’s about the size of a flashdrive then plug the device into a public USB outlet. You can purchase two PortaPow Data Blockers from Amazon for about $10.

Another risk

In addition to juice hacking there is a lot of risk with using public wifi. Every time you connect to public wifi, such as at a coffee shop or airport, a nefarious person may be lurking on that same wifi. With the right skills that nefarious person could swipe any data you send over that connection, such as your login names and passwords.

VPNs

Like a USB data blocker, you can put a layer of protection between you and public wifi. In this case, the solution is software, not hardware.

A virtual private network (VPN) is well, a kind of private network. After installing the VPN on each of your devices (phone, tablet, laptop – anything that may leave your home and connect to the Internet), every time you connect to public wifi, sign into your VPN with your username and password. That login provides the layer of protection you need. All of the information flowing between your device and the Internet will be encrypted. No one can read it without knowing your VPN username and password.

There are several very good VPNs out there. I use Private Internet Access (PIA), but ExpressVPN is always on the lists of excellent VPNs. A good VPN costs a few dollars a month, but most occasionally run big sales or offer year-long or multi-year purchases. You can install the VPN on all of your devices, but there is a limit to how many devices can connect to the VPN simultaneously from that same account. There are free VPNs, but they may not be as fast or may limit how much data you can send through their servers each month. If you want to go that route, I recommend checking out Hotspot Shield Free or TunnelBear.

On your device, when you connect to a VPN, you can choose where the server is that you’d like to connect through. Going through a VPN will always be slower than traveling the Internet naked. The VPN is a password protected gateway. You first have to go through the gate, don your virtual hazmat suit, and then head out to the Internet. It takes a little bit of time to do that.

For fastest speeds, connect through a server that’s physically closest to you. From my home router, I generally don’t use a VPN. My password protected router gives me the shielding that I need. Here are some sample Internet speeds I just ran today; check yours with Speedtest.net.

From my home router without a VPN: download speed was 113 Mbps; upload speed was 12Mbps

Connected to PIA VPN going through server in Denver, closest to where I live: download 42 Mbps; upload 11 Mbps

You can connect to servers just about anywhere in the world. This is very handy if you’re traveling in, say, Europe, and want to spend an evening watching Netflix. You may, though, only watch Netflix shows for a European audience. If you want access to all of the Netflix shows you watch in the United States, you can use a VPN, and choose a server location in the United States. Netflix will think your device is in, say, Chicago even though you and your device are actually in Vienna. If you intend to use your VPN in this way, choose ExpressVPN as your VPN provider. Netflix isn’t fooled by all VPNs, but ExpressVPN, at least as of this writing, can pull it off. (Here is a short list of other VPNs that can, too.) ExpressVPN is a little more expensive than other VPNs; you get what you pay for.

Travel router

If you travel a lot and are frequently connecting several devices to, say, a hotel’s wifi, it can be a hassle. You (and your spouse, and your kids) have to connect each of your devices, and then—as you now know—run a VPN on each of your devices. Some hotels limit the number of devices that can connect to their wifi. One hotel I stayed in had a limit of six devices. Since it was just me, I came in well under their limit. If I added my wife and a couple teenagers (fyi, I don’t have any teenagers, and, no, I don’t want yours), we’d easily be over the six-device limit.

Consider purchasing a travel router. The travel router connects to the hotel wifi just like any device does. The router works by adding a new password-protected wifi signal. My travel router uses the same name and password as our home wifi. As soon as the travel router is up and running, all of my devices see the home wifi name and will connect to it automatically. And what about that hotel device limit? The hotel sees the travel router as one device; it won’t see all of the devices connected to the router.

With a travel router, there is no need to use a VPN since it comes with the built-in protection of a username and password and encryption. (If your router doesn’t come with encryption automatically enabled, enable it.)

I use the TP-Link N300 travel router. Setting up the software and connecting can be intimidating, although TP-Link’s Tether app for phones makes setup and connecting much easier. It’s been five years since I bought it, and other travel routers have since come on the market. Try this GL.iNet travel router for about the same price.

Conclusion

A number of years ago, I wrote about password security. Still, the number one threat to your online security are your passwords. Strong, unique passwords for every site you log into will provide you with the best protection. In that post I advised using a password manager. I still do. Here are PCMagazine’s recommendations. For your most important sites—such as banking and email—use two-factor authentication. If someone does get your password, they still won’t be able to log in without access to, say, your phone.

VPNs, travel routers, and data blockers keep your passwords protected as they flow from your device out onto the Internet.

Stay safe out there.

 




Zotero: Adding reference items to this pdf/citation manager

Anyone who does research writing needs a pdf and citation manager. I had been a fan of Mendeley until they were bought by Elsevier who changed the code in a way that made it no longer usable for me. Those issues may be fixed now, but it’s too late. I’ve thrown my lot in with Zotero.

Every research writer needs a place to store and annotate their pdfs. Writers also need a way to quickly add properly formatted citations to a text. Zotero does both. Are you collaborating with a co-author? Zotero can handle your shared resources.

We would need a two-hour workshop to cover everything that Zotero can do. In this blog post, I won’t cover everything. If you’re a webinar kind of person, check out Zotero’s free webinars. If you’re a video tutorial kind of person, check out these community-created Zotero tutorials. For now, I want to show you how to get started with—and add references to—Zotero.

Getting started with Zotero

After installing Zotero, get the plugin for your preferred word processor: Word, LibreOffice, Google Docs. Next, add the Zotero Connector to your preferred web browser: Firefox, Chrome, Safari.

The plugin for your word processor will allow you to click a button to search and add a reference. The in-text citation will be added, and when you click the Zotero button to add the bibliography, all of the citations you’ve added to your paper will be properly formatted according to whatever citation style you select.

Adding reference items to Zotero

To add citations to a paper, you first need to get the citation information into your Zotero database. There are (at least) four ways to do it.

Zotero Connector—the add-in for your web browser—will allow you to save any webpage to your Zotero database. If you are in your library’s database viewing an article, click the Zotero button in your web browser to automatically download the pdf to your computer, store it in your Zotero database, and pull the article’s metadata into Zotero’s bibliographic fields.

In this example, I found an article in my library’s database and clicked the Zotero Connector icon in Chrome. I got a little pop-up asking me which of my Zotero folders I’d like to save the article to. I chose my Demo folder. There is no save button here; Zotero will handle the download on its own.

 

Over in Zotero, in my Demo folder is the article, including a full text pdf. Clicking on that pdf will open it in a new Zotero tab where I can add notes. All of the metadata from the pdf has been populated into Zotero’s bibliographic fields. Always double-check these data. The most common issue is that some journals routinely capitalize every word in the title. If that happens, click on the title and edit the capitalization. When you’re done editing, click off the field, and Zotero will save your changes.

A second way to get a pdf into Zotero is to locate the pdf on computer and then click and drag it onto a Zotero folder. Any metadata in the pdf will automatically populate Zotero’s bibliographic fields.

A third way to add bibliographic information is to use Zotero’s magic wand—the “add item(s) by identifier” icon. Try this. Navigate to whichever Zotero folder you’d like to add an item to. Click on the magic wand icon, and copy/paste this doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0280036

Zotero will automatically add the item with its bibliographic data to your folder. Zotero will also search for a pdf of the article. If it can find it, it will add the pdf to the item as it will in this case. If Zotero doesn’t bring in the pdf automatically, right click on the item, and in the pop-up menu, you can ask Zotero to search for a pdf. If Zotero can’t find a pdf, but you find one later, click and drag the pdf from your computer onto the item title in Zotero. Zotero will attach it to that entry.

A fourth way to add an item to your Zotero folder is manually. Choose the Zotero folder you’d like to add the entry to, click Zotero’s “add item” button, select the type of entry you’d like to add, and then fill in the fields.

Adding citations to your paper

With the bibliographic information in (regardless of which four techniques I used), I can now use the Zotero “Add/Edit Citation” button in my word processor (Word, LibreOffice, Google Docs) to quickly add the citation to my research paper, then click the “Add/Edit Bibliography” to get all of the full references listed. If you notice an error in your reference list, go to Zotero and fix the bibliographic information for the item(s). Come back to your paper and click the “Refresh” button. The in-text citations and the reference list will be updated to reflect your changes.




Zotero: Adding “Advance online publication” to APA reference

For those of you who use Zotero as your go-to pdf and reference manager, you may have encountered problems with citing advance online publications as needed in APA style. I’ve learned the secret. Here’s the citation I am aiming to create using Zotero

Kumar, A., & Epley, N. (2022). A little good goes an unexpectedly long way: Underestimating the positive impact of kindness on recipients. Journal of Experimental Psychology: General. Advance online publication. https://doi.org/10.1037/xge0001271

To get that “Advance online publication” inserted before the doi, find the Extra field in your Zotero citation. In that field, copy/paste this text: {:status: Advance online publication}

Click off the field to save it. That’s it. Zotero is now ready to produce your correctly formatted reference.

Side note, I found the answer in a 2016 Zotero forum. And that, my friends, is how far behind the times I am. In 2020, someone asked in the forum if there is now an easier way to do this. Nope, still isn’t.




Canvas: Delete all announcements at once

As I get ready for next term, I’ve copied my fall Canvas course into next term’s course. My Trello “course reset” checklist tells me that I need to delete all of my course announcements. As of this writing, the only option Canvas gives me to do that is to manually click each box and then click the trashcan icon at the top of the page.

This seems unnecessarily cumbersome, but we have a couple workarounds.

Tampermonkey

If you have installed Tampermonkey, I recommend this userscript available via the Greasy Fork.

IMPORTANT: If you use this script, edit line 7 to read:

// @match https://*/courses/*/announcements

That will ensure that this script only runs on the announcements page and no other pages.

To check all of the checkboxes on your Announcements page, click on the Tampermonkey icon and select “Check all checkboxes.” If you change your mind, click on the Tampermonkey icon and select “Uncheck all checkboxes.” To delete your checked announcements, click the trashcan icon at the top of the Announcements page.

Browser’s developer console

If you don’t have Tampermonkey, consider exploring it on this blog’s Canvas Enhancements page. But if you’re not quite ready to go that route, here’s your workaround courtesy of Nico Durand via the Canvas Community.

In your browser (Firefox or Chrome), press CTRL + SHIFT + I to open your browser’s developer’s tools. You will see a scary box across the bottom of your browser. Click the Console tab. At the very bottom, next to the >>, paste in this code: document.querySelectorAll(“input”).forEach(e => e.click())

In Firefox, you may get a warning about allowing the pasting of text. Just type in the >> box whatever the screen tells you to enter. I think it’s just “Allow pasting.” And now you’ll be able to paste in the code.

Press Enter. All of your checkboxes will be selected. At the top of the Announcements page, click the trashcan icon to delete them all.




Windows 11: File explorer now has tabs

If you have updated Windows 11 recently, you have a new feature that will make your life a little easier. It comes without fanfare and therefore is easy to miss.

File explorer tabs

Open file explorer—that’s what you use to see your files and folders. At the very top of your file explorer window, you now have tabs. In this screenshot, you can see that I have one tab open: Dropbox. Clicking the plus sign to the right of that tab will open a new tab.

When I clicked the plus sign to open a new tab, I navigated to my Downloads folder. Dropbox is open in one tab, and Downloads in the other.

While it’s nice to be able to navigate between folders without having to have multiple file explorer windows open, here comes the magic. I can click and drag a file from one tab to another tab. Once I’m over that other tab, I can choose where in that folder I want to move the file.

Some of the nicest things in life are the simplest.

Office Tab

If you’re a fan of tabs, you might also enjoy having your Word, Excel, or PowerPoint files open as tabs instead of as separate windows.

While this feature is not built into Microsoft Office, there is a third party product for Windows that will do this called Office Tab. Download and try it for free for 30 days. After that, it is yours with a one-time purchase price of $39. That comes with two years’ worth of updates and tech support. I first wrote about Office Tab in 2011. Have you noticed how technology changes? Office Tab has a bunch of features now—including choosing a color for each tab and creating groups of files that can all be opened with one click. It’s probably time for a new blog post dedicated just to Office Tab.




New Canvas enhancements page

For all of you Canvas learning management system users, I have compiled all of my favorite Canvas enhancements onto one page. The page is listed as a link in the top horizontal menu for easy access. If there is anything on the Canvas enhancements page that could be clearer, please let me know via sue@suefrantz.com.




Dropbox Capture: New screen recording tool

There is no shortage of screen/webcam recording tools. It occurred to someone at Dropbox that if so many people are uploading their recordings to Dropbox and sharing links to those recordings, wouldn’t it be easier if recordings were automatically saved to Dropbox? Enter the newest recording tool: Dropbox Capture.

Those of us on Dropbox Basic, Plus, and Family plans get 120 minutes of total recording time. Once you record something using Dropbox Capture, a folder called “Capture” will be added to your Dropbox folder. Once I’ve recorded 120 minutes, I’ll need to delete or move recordings to be able to record more. It’s better thought of as stored recording time, not actual recording time. When I near my limit, I can navigate to my Dropbox folder, click on the Capture folder, then click and drag my recordings (mp4 files) into a different folder. Easy peasy.

Do you remember when Dropbox first launched? We had a small amount of storage space, but if people joined using a link we gave them, Dropbox would add space to our account (see this 2011 blog post, for example). They are taking the same approach with Dropbox Capture. If you use this link to download Dropbox Capture, Dropbox will give both of us an additional 20 minutes of recording time.

Installing Dropbox Capture

Visit this Dropbox Capture page, and click the “Accept Invite” button. Sign in to your Dropbox account. If you don’t have an account, click the “Create an account” link. After logging in, you’ll be asked to allow Dropbox Capture to connect to your Dropbox account. Next, click the big blue Download for Windows (or Download for Mac, I’m guessing it says) button. Lastly, run the installer from wherever it downloaded to—probably your Download folder.

How Dropbox Capture works

Launch Dropbox Capture. (Tangent: we used to run programs. Now we launch apps. It’s the same thing. We’ve just become more dramatic.)

Dropbox Capture is pretty intuitive to use. In the Capture window (screenshot below), I can see how many recording minutes I have (120) and how many I’ve used so far (1). I’ve recorded more minutes than that, but I’ve deleted the recordings I don’t need. Clicking on the folder icon will open my Dropbox Capture folder. Clicking on the globe icon takes me to capture.dropbox.com where I can see all of my recordings.

That recording I just did? You can watch it here. Note that in the top right corner of that video page, there is a transcript button. Dropbox Capture created that transcript all on its own. It did a pretty good job, but it’s not perfect. I wish it were, because as of this writing, there does not appear to be a way to edit the transcript.

With Dropbox Capture we can do a screen recording with our camera showing us in a corner of the screen. If you don’t like the placement of the webcam video, just click and drag it somewhere else on the screen. If you don’t want the webcam at all, choose “screen recording.” Your microphone will be on by default, but you can mute it by clicking the mic icon.


Or maybe you just want a static screenshot? Select “Screenshot” and draw a box around what you want. In the bottom right corner of your screen, you’ll see the screenshot. Click the pencil icon to edit your screenshot. The tool bar includes the ability add text, free draw, add a line/arrow/circle/square, blur a part of the image, crop the image, change the color and the weight of the text/line/etc.


When your image looks as you’d like, click the “Save and copy” button. The image will automatically be saved to your Dropbox Capture folder. Take a look at my edited image.

And, of course, you can also just do an audio recording or just a webcam (plus audio) recording (again, click the mic icon to mute if you just want the video with no audio).

capture.dropbox.com

Visit the https://capture.dropbox.com/ webpage to see everything you’ve created with Capture.

Click “Create collection” to create, well, collections. You can create multiple collections, and you can add the same recording to multiple collections. If you’re familiar with the concept of tagging content, this is really what this is. Click on a collection (here I have a collection called New Mexico Recordings) to get a link to the collection.

Under each item, there is a plus sign icon. Click on it to add it to a collection. Click the link icon to get a link to the video. The default security setting is “Anyone with a link” can access it. Click the trash can icon to delete.


By clicking on my recording (but not the screen capture), I have a rudimentary editing tool. I can click and drag from the left or right to delete content at the beginning or end of the recording. How do we remove something from the middle of the recording? I have no idea. It’s possible to click in the middle. It adds a blue line, but I can’t actually select anything. Click and drag? Doesn’t work. Click, press shift or ctrl, click something else? No luck. It doesn’t look like Dropbox Capture’s technical writers know how to do it either. They write on the “how to edit videos” page, “Use the controls at the bottom of the window to select a portion of your video.” I’m going to guess that this feature was not ready for primetime, but Dropbox didn’t want to delay the release of Dropbox Capture. A

Conclusion

Dropbox Capture makes solid use of the Dropbox ecosystem. This is a good tool for quick one-off recordings. If you need more robust video editing tools (something more than deleting the start and end of the recording, ability to edit the transcript), Dropbox Capture is not the tool for you (yet?).




MS PowerToys new features: Text extractor, quick accent, and screen ruler

In spring of 2022, I wrote about some of the very cool features in MS PowerToys for Windows 10 and 11, such as highlighting the mouse pointer (very handy with three screens) and creating fixed zones on the desktop to drop windows into (also very handy with three screens). The good folks at Microsoft have just released a PowerToys update with three new features: text extractor, quick accent, and screen ruler. I’m particularly excited about the first two.

Get PowerToys here. It’s free. No ads. No annual fees. It really is free.

If you already have PowerToys, to get the update, launch PowerToys from your Windows start menu, and on the PowerToys general tab click the “Check for updates” button.

Text extractor

This tool allows you to grab the text from anywhere on your screen. Yes, that also includes images. Use the keyboard shortcut to run the text extractor: Windows key + Shift + t (for text). Your screen will go gray. Click and drag your mouse to draw a rectangle around the text you want to capture. Unclick your mouse. Windows has captured the text from the image, and that text is now on clipboard ready for pasting.

For an example, let’s take this CDC infographic.

I’m going to run the text extractor on the infographic title and subtitle. I press windows key + shift + t. My screen turns gray, and I click and drag from the top left corner of the title to the bottom right corner of the subtitle. The content is quietly sent to my clipboard. When I paste it, I get this text:

ADDRESS IT TODAY. PREVENT IT TOMORROW.

We can reduce the generational impact of adverse childhood experiences (ACEs), overdose, and suicide.

Pretty slick, eh?

Quick accent

I have a need to type accented letters often enough that I need a quick way to do it, but not often enough that I can remember how to do it. I confident this is going to solve it for me, because there is only keyboard combination I need to remember.

Quick accent is disabled by default. To enable it, launch PowerToys from your Windows start menu. Select “Quick Accent.” Next to “Enable Quick Accent,” flip the switch to the on position.

On your keyboard, press and hold the letter you want accented, then press and release the spacebar or left or right arrow keys. This will give you a toolbar of accents to choose from. Here, I pressed and held a, and then pressed and released the spacebar. I can then use my keyboard arrow keys to select the accent I want.

When you’ve selected the accent you want, release the letter key.

á

That’s worth going through one more time.

  1. Press and hold letter key
  2. Press and release spacebar, left arrow key, or right arrow key
  3. Use arrow keys to select the accent
  4. Release letter key

If you’re like me, you will discover that it’s not unusual to press a letter key at the end of a word while simultaneously pressing the spacebar to move onto the next word. For example, when typing “the,” if I press the e and press the spacebar at the same time, and then I release the e as I prepare to move on to the next word, I end up selecting the very first option in the toolbar, so what I actually type is “thé.” That’s great if I’m writing about French tea; it’s less great if I just want the mundane article “the.” Soon after I had quick accents up and running, I found myself making this error quite a bit. Hours later, the feedback has helped my brain adjust my typing to be more precise. I still make the error, but they are getting less frequent.

By default, the accent options toolbar appears in the top center of the screen. For some reason, I have a hard time finding it up there. In the quick accent section of PowerToys, I changed the location of the toolbar to bottom center. This seems to be a better spot for me. You do you.

Screen ruler

The last PowerToys tool in this update measures the number of pixels for objects on your screen. Windows key + Shift + M (for measuring) will cause the pixel measuring toolbar to appear in the top center of your screen.

Click the first icon—dashed square. Click and drag around an area you want to measure. Here you can see the red line that marks the area I’ve measured. The measurement of 333 pixels by 462 pixels appears in the bottom right corner. When you are done measuring, click the dashed square icon again.

For my purposes, that’s the only icon in the toolbar that I’m interested in. Try out the plus, the horizontal, and the vertical icons. Choose one, move your cursor around whatever is on your screen that you’d like to measure. The screen ruler will try its best to guess what you want measured.

When you’re done with the screen ruler, click the x at the end of the toolbar to close it.

Conclusion

That’s it for this round of PowerToys updates. Enjoy!




Creating a Canvas quiz from a spreadsheet

A colleague recently received a question bank from a publisher as a CSV (spreadsheet) file. He wondered how to get those questions into Canvas. It takes a few steps, but there is a way. For those of you hate all the clicking Canvas requires for you to create quiz questions, you will love this.

This blog post from Kristina Wilson at the Northwestern University School of Professional Studies Distance Learning office will give you all of the instructions you need on how to use the Kansas State University’s CSV to QTI converter. Here is the short version.

First, download the Kansas State template. Here are their descriptions for each of the columns (see this page).

  1. Column A is the type of question: MC (multiple choice) and MR (multiple response) are used in this example. [See template.]
  2. Column B is not used but must be there.
  3. Column C is the point value of the question. It can be between 0-100 and up to two decimal places (3.33)
  4. Column D is question body. Q1 or similar if you don’t want to include the real question and have students see the questions online.
  5. Column E is the correct answer. The number 1-5 each correspond to the one of the possible answers listed in column F-J. In the example file, we use 1 to indicate a, 2 to indicate b, 3 to indicate c, 4 to indicate d, and 5 to indicate. For True/False questions, use 1 for True and 0 for False.
  6. Columns F-J are the possible answer choices. You can have 2 or more. [Add more if you need them. It should work.]

As far as I’ve been able to determine, the only question types available are multiple choice (MC) and multiple response (MR). If you’re able to determine that there are other question types that can be designated in column A, please let me know (sue@suefrantz.com). Thanks!

After you’ve entered your questions, save the file. This is what mine looks like.

Next, you’ll visit the Kansas State converter page. Click Browse to find the file you just saved with all of your questions in it, then click the Perform Conversion button. In your downloads folder, you’ll now have a zip file. Do not unzip it.

Last, go to your Canvas course. In course settings, click Import Course Content. From the Content Type menu, select the last option: QTI .zip file. The quiz questions will be available as a Classic Quiz, not New Quiz.

Happy quizzing!